KLEIDUNG & WAFFEN DER SPATGOTIK BAND III

Part 3: 1420-1480.

While Central and Western Europe are experiencing the "Autumn of the Middle Ages", Italy is already in the Renaissance. While there is still a typical German fashion in the first half of the 15th century, from the middle of the century onwards the Burgundian court sets the tone in fashion throughout Europe - except in Italy. Typical of the Burgundian style are the richly pleated robes and armour made of sumptuous, mostly Italian damask and brocade fabrics and, on the other hand, the inclusion of black garments in court costume.

In terms of weaponry, the period 1420-1480 is the great age of plate armour. In Italy, the early Renaissance armour reached its technical and formal maturity around the middle of the century. In Germany, under Italian influence, the typical late Gothic armour emerged after the middle of the century and experienced its first flowering around 1480. Improved armour on the one hand and fashionable influences on the other did not remain without effect on the form and decoration of the assault weapons.

For conceptual reasons, the focus of the presentation in this volume is also on courtly and bourgeois fashion, as well as on the armament of heavy cavalry. The great abundance of material has led to a strong expansion of the picture documentation. Thus there are now 10 instead of 8 painted colour plates as well as numerous photos of contemporary art monuments with representations of armour and clothing. For the first time, many original suits of armour from the best-known public and private collections are also shown.